You wake to the sight of monkeys doing rolls down dunes of red sand and springboks and impala prancing. But in so many stretches of this remote country, you and they are the only ones around, apart, perhaps, from a few tribes-people who’ve made simple huts in the desert. In Sossusvlei, the dunes rise to over 900 feet in height. For safaris, there is the 6000 square mile Etosha Park, with its small, designer lodges, one of the largest and most wildlife packed parks on the continent. On a typical night, you can take breaks between elegant dinner courses and watch standoffs between lions and rhinos at the watering holes, lit by floodlights.